A fancy package boasts of some distant connection to the family of the famous composer. The juice in the bottle delivers firm and resilient flavors, with plenty of yeastiness. Citrus and grapefruit rind dominate, in a true brut style. How about naming it “Beethoven's other fifth”? Best Buy. —P.G.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.