A big, muscular wine, powered with great rich wafts of black fruits, red plums and dense tannins. Maybe the wood element is just out of balance at this stage, giving a caramel flavor, but this should pass and the fruit and structure remain. One of a range of numbered, limited bottlings from Labouré-Roi.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.