Tinta Negra Mole, widely planted in Madeira, is a chameleon grape that can take on the character of any grape or style the producer fancies. Here it has transmuted into a rich Bual, wood aged and with old-gold flavors and color. The acidity at the end, which is what will preserve the wine for many years, is intense and impressive. Drink now.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.