Already a touch toasty, this is not as searingly dry as some Zéro Dosage Champagnes. Mind you, there is no doubt it is dry, the crisp apple, grapefruit and taut structure all confirming that. In the end, though, it has weight along with lively acidity.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.