Morgan has been a real pioneer in the unoaked Chardonnay movement, and when the wine scores, it scores big. Consider this a run-scoring triple. It's totally dry, very acidic (officially, 7.13 g/L, for the statistically-minded) and austere, with a hard edge of minerals. What fruit there is suggests tart green apples and white nectarines. Believe me, you won't miss the oak.