Blueberries and purple fruits get distinct seasoning from maple syrup, licorice, crushed Italian herbs and minerality in this wine from the underappreciated Cuyama Valley. The palate is quite wound up, with blueberry, black lava rocks and unrelenting herb flavors just poking out. This will unwind very nicely, so drink 2018–2028.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.