Very much in the Nicolas Potel style of fruit-driven wines, this still keeps a firm grip on the structure, which is proper to a wine from Morey Saint-Denis. There's great freshness here, but also the ripe fruits of 2003—blueberries, dark plums—plus just a touch of wood and a flourish of acidity to finish.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.