North-facing vineyards are the source for this impressively structured, layered wine. Its tannins are huge, but dusty rather than dry, sustaining big, rich fruits. Coffee flavors vie with the dry toast and acidity. This is a wine that just narrowly avoids being over the top, and in doing so turns into something great.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.