A very dry Port, the tannins concentrating the fruit into a tight, mineral ball. Even if the fruit is suppressed at this stage, it will show through in years to come, leaving a structured but rich wine.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.