This is a bright star in Olivier Leflaive's firmament, a wondrous big, rich wine that is just so finely poised. The structure is dense, rich, fat and full-bodied, a hymn to ripe fruit. Flavors are fruit-driven at this stage, but this is a wine that will develop over many years, if you can resist the urge to indulge its luxuriant tastes now.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.