Corton-Charlemagne expresses the power of Chardonnay, rather than the subtlety. Given that, Olivier Leflaive's version is finely nuanced, and its weight comes as much from the rich white- and yellow-fruit flavors as the tight structure. Like most grand crus, this needs to age, so give it 5–6 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.