A very toasty wine, with maturity but without the balancing elegance. Somehow the fruit seems to have been sidelined by the toastiness and the wine doesn't quite hold together. Pommery is supposed to be back on form now, so more recent vintage releases of Louise should be less disappointing than this.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.