Ninety-year-old vines produce this ink-black wine, intensely powerful and concentrated. At this stage it is very young, its superb dense fruit still developing. But the power, the rich tannins and the smooth feel from open stone fermenters still make this a wine that needs considerable aging. Give it 5–7 years and more.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.