Noval has often in the past released a Vintage Port in years when other producers hold back. And, as in the past, the release is justified. For this is an impressive, dense and seriously age-worthy Port. While it has plenty of perfumed jammy red fruits and balanced acidity, it is the dark tannic character that will sustain this wine for decades. It could be drunk now for its fruit, although that would be a shame. Better to wait until 2030 and longer.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.