Portal's 2004 vintage is a powerful effort from an average year. The dark structures are all here: the rich, sweet fruit is dense and concentrated, flavored with currants and black figs. This should age well, with its present dominant dry structure.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.