This is concentration in a glass. The wine, from a fine vintage, is hugely rich, very dense and tannic. All this power, though, is not at the expense of elegance. The wine has great style and a sense of place, with a strong mineral character. It almost tastes of the granite and old rocks of the vineyard. Keep this wine and don't drink before 2019.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.