A beautifully matured wine, all toast and rich vanilla with a touch of currants still there, suggesting the wine has more time to develop. This is how mature Champagne should be, and is a good reminder of how different it is from the fruitier wines we are more used to.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.