The Alvarinho grape, more at home in northern Portugal, makes a fine wine in the Alentejo hill country northeast of Lisbon. Here the flavors are tropical: ripe pineapple, a touch of spice and just the right amount of acidity. The wine will be better from 2017.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.