This is the flagship Chardonnay from Thomas Fogarty Winery, a one-barrel lot that comes from a third-acre vineyard. And yet, from the winery's excellent 2011 line-up, it brings the least to the table. A zesty, grassy lemon-lime soda nose lands on the palate with Key lime and very little complication, making it pleasurable, but fairly breezy for the headiest of the Fogarty lot. Pair with halibut or seared scallops.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.