The black plum and toasty oak nose of this suave button-pusher will help you make friends quickly. Very international in style, it displays black cherry, semisweet chocolate and licorice accents on a medium frame with good acidity. It's tasty, but a bit indistinct—this oak-heavy wine could be from many places. Still, it's well rendered in a style that has broad appeal. Closes dark and toasty, with some dry tannins to lose. Good now, best from 2003 to 2005. —M.M.