A really taut wine, this is very nervy. It brings out the ageworthy qualities of fine Alsace Riesling, offering white fruits and fragrant acidity. Crisp and fruity on the surface, it is steely right at its core. Keep for 3–5 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.