Forget about bright green beans. Forget about oil-consumption worries. To appreciate this dish, you have to imagine you're at a Greek-American restaurant in the 1960s, the kind where all the dishes of the day are laid out on a steam table, the chef ready to ladle up your choice of what was cooked hours ago. Well, dammit, there's a joy, after all, in long-stewed string beans, a wonderful level of flavor the quick-and-green ones never reach. Down with rabbit food! So the key to getting this dish right is making sure the beans cook long enough. Two hours should be about right . . . but if you're not sure, let them cook a little longer. You'll be amazed how delicious they become. In the late stages, there will be nothing but oil left around the beans . . . so add a little water to the pot if you wish to continue cooking. And as you remove the beans from the oil, keep telling yourself the Mediterranean diet is healthy, the Mediterranean diet is healthy. .