Until the 1970s, recipes for poke were rare; it was simply something everyone in Hawaii made. Now there are poke cookbooks, including two by Chef Sam Choy of Oahu, whose annual Poke Festivals draw thousands of entries from several countries. This version is traditional, except for the omission of ogo, a brownish red seaweed common in Hawaii but hard to find elsewhere. If you have a source, chop about a half cup into 1-inch pieces and add to the ahi tuna along with the other ingredients. -Michele Anna Jordan
Wine recommendations: Ahi, especially raw, is rich and fat on the palate; a sparkling wine cleanses the palate with each sip, leaving it refreshed for the next bite. Try a Spanish Cava such as Cristalino NV Brut Cava, Freixenet Elyssia Gran Cuvee Brut Cava or Iron Horse Vineyards 2005 Brut Rosé. Beer, too, works well, especially a refreshing lager, such as Kona Brewing Company’s Longboard Island Lager.