Just as wines are linked to government-sanctioned regions, so is a special chicken (in 1957 poulet de bresse was awarded its own appellation d’origine controlee in Bourg-en-Bresse in Burgundy, France). Alain Ducasse (Le Relais Plaza, inside Hotel Plaza
Athénée, Paris) and Guy Savoy (Restaurant Guy Savoy, Paris) are among the chefs who swear by the white-feathered, blue-footed bird that roams freely and is fed a diet of corn and spring water. Only five percent of poulet de bresse are exported. Unfortunately, none are to the U.S. and Canada, as the exportation of these chickens to North America is banned.
At Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge (near Macon, France), hotel chefs instruct in how to prepare poulet de bresse. Proper preparation involves retaining most of the bird’s water and fat. Here's their savory recipe.