“Though I like to say that we serve people, not wine, we also do grandiose service, like the ‘botrytis,’ using a wine thief and crystal spoons,” says Cedric Nicaise, the wine director. But not everything here is over the top—more than 300 of the restaurant’s 4,000 wines are priced under $100.

Riot Dish: The entire point of Eleven Madison Park is that we change—we change anything and everything—although the duck is the only thing that has not changed in a number of years.