After six years running L.A.’s popular Rivera, Chef John Rivera Sedlar returned to his native Santa Fe to honor the hearty cooking of his abuela (grandmother) Eloisa. Wine Director Damon Adam Lobato’s list is Spain-heavy and food-friendly. Look to his “somm picks” section for more esoteric options.

Riot Dish: “The Jicama Tacos are light and refreshing and definitely interesting to the eye: Rather than a taco shell, we use jicama wafers that are stuffed with pickled ginger, avocado, beets, cilantro and serrano chile.”