Southern food with a lighthearted attitude meets an eclectic, 130-label wine list overseen by Steven Grubbs. “All the selections have little notes, goofy jokes or teasers alongside them,” he says. In the dining room—set in a stately former home—Italian reds outsell California Cabernet and are well-suited to the cuisine, particularly picks from Sicily and Piedmont.

Riot Dish: “The Caesar salad—which, at various points in the restaurant’s history Hugh has listed on the menu as ‘Really Good Caesar Salad’—has existed in various incarnations, but the current version does a great job of showing the heart of what Hugh put together back in the early 2000s. It’s an emotional little dish that our long-time regulars all connect to.”