A lithe list means that as seasons change, the wines can shift as easily as the menu. Katy Kindred, the co-owner and sommelier, favors Beaujolais and Riesling in spring, while fall brings herbal reds like Chinon. Kindred prefers family wineries, with a caveat: “While we do favor small wineries, we don’t allow ideology to outweigh character. Quality comes first.”

Riot Dish: “Milk bread and the crispy oysters.”