The dynamic list at this decade-old Portland favorite triggers questions galore: What’s up with Oregon Chardonnay? Who are these dueling 2011 Cornas producers? What’s Krakhuna? And what exactly is this Portuguese white blend from 1988? Active cellaring means peak-drinking back vintages, like a ’96 Calon-Ségur just entering its prime.

Riot Dish: “The Foie Gras Profiteroles. We end every tasting menu with one, and they are far and away our top selling a la carte dessert. We’d be pilloried if we took them off. People would also be really upset if we got rid of the burger.”