Black currant, lavender, black pepper, soy and graphite show on the nose of this bottling by Zac Wasserman, an assistant to Joey Tensley. There is a flash of lavender at the tip of the sip, and then the darkness descends, with charred meats and blackened berries cut by a strong acidity. It still needs time to develop, but these wines disappear fast, so stock up.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.