As Passover commences, WE presents an innovative Seder recipe as well as some of our favorite kosher wines.
Recipe: Grilled Veal Chops with Quince Compote
Recipe courtesy of Todd Aarons, head chef at Herzog Cellars’ Tierra Sur Restaurant
Says Aarons: “The ancient fruit of quince, known as membrillo in Spain is thought to be the apple from the Garden of Eden. It is a fall favorite of mine and brings me back to the eastern Mediterranean or North Africa, where sour fruit is paired with grilled meats. Before I grill the veal chops, I like to brine them first for succulence and flavor.”
Four veal chops, approx. 12 oz. each
For the brine:
1 gallon water
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup Kosher salt
2 carrots sliced 1/8″
1 medium onion sliced
10 juniper berries
3 fresh bay leaves
For the compote:
4 quinces peeled and cored, cut into 1/4″ thick pieces (save all peels and cores)
4 cups Zinfandel red wine
1 Tablespoon olive oil
2 cups peeled cipollini onions (you may substitute shallots)
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
3 Tablespoons chestnut honey (you may substitute another type of honey)
Brining instructions: Bring half the water to a boil with all the ingredients for the brine. Cook until salt and sugar dissolve. Transfer to another container and add back the other half gallon of water. Cool to room temperature and add chops to the brine; let it soak for two hours refrigerated. Pat dry and set on a rack to continue air-drying while you prepare the grill and the compote.
Grilling instructions: Brush with olive oil and dust with a little black pepper and place on hot grill over a wood fire. An alternative to a wood fire grill is using mesquite charcoal or soaked wood chips on the gas grill to provide a smoky flavor.
Compote instructions: Bring to a boil all the cores and peels in a saucepot with cold water by two times the amount of particulate. Simmer until half the water is gone. Strain the liquid and place into a new clean pot.
Add wine and peeled, sliced quince to the pot. Make sure the fruit is completely covered with liquid; if not add some more water. Simmer until the fruit is tender, approximately 15 minutes. Test for doneness by inserting a knife: it should easily slide in without resistance. Make sure the fruit does not fall apart. The quince will have turned pink. Separate the fruit and the liquid; reduce the liquid to a syrup consistency. The syrup will reduce to a quarter of its original volume and should coat the back of a spoon.
In a sauté pan, heat oil and add the peeled cipollini onions, cooking and constantly mixing until caramelized and supple. At this stage, add vinegar and honey. Cook until the onions are glazed with honey vinegar for approximately eight minutes more over a medium flame.
Combine the glazed cipollini onions, reduced wine syrup and the quince. Adjust the seasoning with sea salt, black pepper and red wine vinegar.
Plating: Spoon some compote on the plate and prop up the chop for vertical height. Drape some more of this savory compote over the veal chop but not hiding all of the chop. Serve with roasted baby mixed color carrots and a few cipollini onions that have been sliced in half made into rings, tossed with flour and fried.
Aarons’ s Recommended Kosher Wine Pairing: Herzog 2006 Edna Valley Pino Noir.
Other Recommended Kosher Wines
90 2005 Hagafen Kosher Chardonnay, Oak Knoll, $21. Here’s a rich, complex Chardonnay, made in the full-blown Burgundian way. The fruit itself gives layers of tropical guava, pineapple and nectarine flavors, while finely toasted oak adds caramel, buttered toast and spice flavors. With a creamy texture, it’s a delicious wine all the way. — S.H.
90 2002 Château Valandraud Kosher Bordeaux Blend, Saint-Emilion, $250. If not the best, then one of the best kosher wines we’ve ever tasted, with smoke, cedar and meat aromas nicely balanced by plummy, chocolaty fruit. A creamy mouthfeel and smooth, easy finish makes it a delight to drink, but consume this Merlot-based wine over the near term. Imported by Royal Wine Corporation. — W.E.
90 2003 Yarden Katzrin Kosher Bordeaux Blend, Galilee, $100. Produced only in outstanding vintages, this rich Bordeaux blend exudes fantastic flavors of black plum, blackberry and black cherry accented by notes of tobacco and white pepper. The bold palate and creamy texture lead in to a long and evolving finish that closes on a hint of mocha. The solid structure and assertive backbone ensure this wine will be a pleasure now and for years to come. Imported by Yarden Inc. — L.B.
90 2004 Baron Herzog Kosher Special Reserve Syrah, Edna Valley, $30. This wine shows real varietal character, in the Northern Rhône sense of a fairly tannic, dry offering, but also is true Edna Valley in the brisk acids and purity of fruit. Has that hard-to-describe quality of elegant complexity that is the first duty of wine. Drink now through 2010. — S.H.
89 2005 Carmel Sha’al Single Vineyard Late Harvest Kosher Gewürztraminer, Upper Galilee, 375 ml, $19. This intense late-harvest Gewürz is full of honey, mashed nectarine, apricot purée and ginger. Full in the mouth with a thick, velvety texture and a long, lingering finish that evolves from sweet to spicy. — L.B.
Coming Soon: Reviews of several Passover relases from the Royal Wine Corp.