WE spent some time with chefs at the various events and collected some recipes that bring this French gastronomic celebration home:
2 cups whole milk
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon fine ground black pepper
1 pinch ground nutmeg
7/8 cup butter
2 5/8 cups all purpose flour, sifted
7 ounces Comté cheese, grated
2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 egg yolks, beaten
Pour the milk with the salt, pepper, nutmeg and butter into a heavy saucepan, and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and blend in the sifted flour. Return to the stove on low to medium heat and stir continuously with a wooden spoon or spatula until it no longer sticks to the sides of the saucepan, approximately 3 to 4 minutes.
Transfer the mixture to a large glass mixing bowl and blend in the eggs, two at a time. Add the cream and three-quarters of the cheese. Stir the mixture until it has an even consistency—it should stick to the spatula, hanging down in long strands.
Using a pastry bag, pipe the dough onto parchment-lined cookie sheets in 1-inch rounds, with about 2-3 inches between each round. Glaze with egg yolk and sprinkle the remainder of the cheese on top.
Let stand for 10 minutes, then bake for 20–30 minutes in a 400°F oven, until puffed and light golden brown. Remove from oven and serve immediately. Serves 8.
Le Cheval Noir, with its cream tiles, wooden panels over rose-hued faux-alabaster walls and modern straight-backed chairs, may look like an shrine to avant-garde cuisine, but there’s no doubt that it’s a traditional French restaurant. Chef Fabrice Noir has been turning out innovative variations on classic Burgundian fare since 1997. He has an affinity for fresh ingredients, and turns to local farmers to see what’s available when creating his seasonal menu. But Boeuf Bourguignon is a staple that’s always on the menu.
For his version, Noir uses beef cheeks, which he marinates in red wine, onions and carrots for 24 hours before cooking. The dish is best served with a red from Burgundy, such as Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils, 2006 Beaune Clos de la Mousse Premier Cru.
Created by Chef Fabrice Noir
3 pounds trimmed beef cheeks
2 bottles red Burgundy wine
1 garlic clove
1 branch of thyme
5 bay leaves
¾ pound pearl onions
1 pound white mushrooms
¾ pound thick smoked bacon
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Butter for frying
Cut the beef cheeks into 1-inch cubes. Cut the carrot and onion into ½-inch cubes. Marinate the beef, carrot, bay leaf, thyme and onion in the red wine and place in the refrigerator for 24 hours.
Cut the mushrooms into quarters, peel the pearl onions and brown both in 2 tablespoons of butter. Cut the bacon into ½-inch strips and fry until crisp. Drain the beef, carrots and onions, and fry in two tablespoons of butter until browned. While frying the beef, sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of flour. Begin boiling the red wine. When you have a rolling boil, skim the foam from the top. Add the beef, carrots, onions, pearl onions, mushrooms and bacon to the boiling red wine. Cook over low heat for 2–3 hours, stirring frequently. Serve with mashed potatoes or egg noodles. Serves 8.
Bouchard Père & Fils, founded in 1731, stands just within the ramparts of Beaune. Originally part of a network of fortress walls, the ancient cellars house thousands of rare bottles from the 19th century. With more than 320 acres of vineyards spread across the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune, Bouchard has a presence in many of the most prestigious appellations of Burgundy, including Montrachet, Corton-Charlemagne, Clos de Vougeot, Volnay Caillerets and Mersault Perrières. Over the course of the weekend, owner Joseph Henriot, winemaker Philippe Prost and export director Luc Bouchard hosted a series of lunches and dinners in the chateau’s glass-enclosed L’Orangerie.
Chef Jean-Paul Thibert, whose former restaurant in Dijon earned one Michelin star and 18 points out of 20 from Gault-Millau, created menus to accompany Bouchard wines chosen by Henriot and Prost for their guests. Scallops and lobster in truffle bouillon were accompanied by 2000 Corton-Charlemagne, while Bresse chicken with foie gras and wild mushrooms was paired with Beaune Greves Premier Vigne de L’Enfant Jesus from the same year. A selection of cheese was served alongside 1990 Volnay Caillerets Cru Ancienne Cuvée Carnot.
Reds from Burgundy are 100% Pinot Noir and show a good balance between fraises de bois, chocolate notes and bright acidity—a flavor profile that Chef Thibert showcased perfectly in this chic dessert, which combines these three elements. Although wine tasting notes can sometimes bewilder readers, a little bit of each of these on a teaspoon will give you an idea of what to look for the next time you taste Pinot Noir. Serve with a sweet wine, such as 2008 Carmes de Rieussec from Sauternes.
Molten Chocolate Cake, Orange Foam, and Soup of Red Wine and Raspberries
Created by Chef Jean-Paul Thibert
For the molten chocolate cake:
6 ounces sugar
4½ ounces flour
8 ounces sweet cream butter
8 ounces 70% dark chocolate
Preheat oven to 400°F. In a glass mixing bowl, beat the sugar and flour into the eggs. Melt the butter and the chocolate together in a double boiler. Slowly pour the melted chocolate and butter mixture into the egg mixture. Combine well with a rubber spatula and pour into 3-inch diameter ramekins. Place ramekins on a baking sheet and bake in oven for approximately 10 minutes. Remove from oven, let rest 5 minutes and serve.
For orange foam:
2 cups orange juice
Juice of 1 lemon
1 small envelope unflavored gelatin
8 small tangerines or clementines
Dissolve the gelatin in 4 ounces of cold water. Peel and section the tangerines, place in a medium saucepan, add the lemon juice and orange juice. Bring to a boil. Add the gelatin water and whisk well. Let cool.
Remove the orange slices and refrigerate for 3 hours. Pour the liquid into a soda siphon and place in the refrigerator for 3 hours.
To serve, place 6–8 orange sections into each ramekin, and while holding the soda siphon upright, discharge equal amounts of foam into each glass.
For the soup of red wine and raspberries:
1 pint fresh raspberries
3/8 cup dry red wine
1½ tablespoons sugar
In a glass mixing bowl, combine raspberries, wine and sugar. Refrigerate for 2-3 hours before serving, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Serve in a stem-less liqueur glass.
Serve all three elements on a large white dinner plate. Place one individual cake on each plate, alongside a ramekin of orange foam and a liqueur glass filled with raspberry soup.