In October, the beach crowd of the Amalfi Coast may have thinned, but Italy’s spa season has just begun. Pliny the Elder (who died during the eruption of nearby Mount Vesuvius in A.D. 79) once said, “In wine, there is health.” It’s only fitting, then, that travelers can combine the healthful pursuits of wine and water in Irpinia, a natural wonderland packed with forests, lakes and waterfalls in Italy’s Campania region. The same volcanic fault line that decimated Pompeii is responsible for a string of thermal pools and spas, and October is a great time to enjoy them in warm weather without the summer crowds.
The region’s volcanic soil, ideal for grape grow- ing, also produces black truffles, which are just coming into season this month: Taste them in local dishes like the homemade pasta with black truffles from neighboring Monti Picentini at Feudi di San Gregorio’s Michelin-starred restau- rant Marennà (feudi.it/marenna). Pair it with Feudi’s mineral-rich Pietracalda, or “Hot Stone” Fiano, for a full-circle wine and food experience.
The grape harvest is over, but the heady bou- quet of fermenting Greco di Tufo and Aglianico perfumes the cool evening air. Go to the source by touring local wineries, including Feudi and Cantine di Marzo (cantinedimarzo.it), with its bedrock cellars, or grab a glass at Winebar, dra- matically located in a volcanic crater.