The buzz around modern Filipino restaurants like Maharlika and Jeepney in New York City and Toronto’s Lamesa have given way to “next big cuisine” whispers and a spate of new eateries.
New Yorkers Romy Dorotan and Amy Besa were ahead of the curve when they opened Cendrillon in 1995, and Purple Yam in 2009, where they pair refined Filipino food with Old World wines. This adobo recipe comes from their book Memories of Philippine Kitchens.
Beef Short Ribs Adobo
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 pounds beef short ribs, cut into large pieces
1½ cups chicken stock
1 cup coconut milk
1 cup Sherry vinegar or apple cider vinegar
½ cup soy sauce
1 head garlic, separated and peeled
2 large leeks (white and light-green parts only), cut lengthwise and cleaned, then cut in half crosswise
3 bay leaves
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 whole bird’s eye (or other whole spicy red) chilies
4 slices roasted or grilled winter squash, for garnish
In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat and brown the ribs on all sides. Drain off the oil.
Add the rest of the ingredients (except the garnish) to the pan and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, partially covered, skimming off excess fat periodically. Cook until the meat is tender and falling off the bone, usually about 1½ hours.
Remove the ribs, increase the heat and reduce the sauce until thick, usually about 10–15 minutes. Discard the bay leaves and chilies. Return the ribs to the pan, covering them with the sauce. Serve with steamed white rice and slice of squash on each plate. Serves 4.
Dorotan goes for a spicy Cornas, like Nicolas Serrette’s Patou. Says Dorotan: “These Northern Rhône wines can be austere up front, but they bloom, similar to how the adobo’s vinegar mellows when it cooks. They dance with each other and eventually find a delicious rhythm.”