Known more for its power to cut through spicy heat and richer foods, the ever-versatile Riesling also adds amazing complexity and depth to lighter dishes, like this tasty take on carpaccio from Chef Gavin Kaysen’s Spoon and Stable in Minneapolis.
The Wonder Wine
From bone dry to decadently sweet, Riesling’s pure fruit character and its brisk, mouthwatering acidity are why the wine plays so well with almost any dish. Put another way: When in doubt, pour a Riesling.
1 dozen quail eggs
8 ounces sushi-quality tuna steak, 1-inch thick
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ pound haricot verts (or thin green beans)
½ cup black olives (preferably Ligurian), pitted and halved
2 tablespoons capers
1 dozen cherry tomatoes, halved
1 stalk celery, trimmed, peeled and sliced thin
Boil quail eggs for 5 minutes. Shell and quarter eggs, and set aside.
Slice tuna steak horizontally into 4 equal portions, one quarter-inch thick. Place tuna slices individually between layers of plastic wrap, and gently flatten with meat tenderizer or mallet into round disks about 6 inches in diameter.
Remove wrap, and lay tuna disks face down on plate. Whisk together olive oil and lemon juice.
Add salt to taste and set aside. Bring medium saucepan of salted water to boil.
Add beans and cook until tender, about 3 minutes.
Drain, then cool under running water. Pat dry and cut into half-inch pieces.
Next, season the tuna with salt and pepper. Brush with lemon vinaigrette, and scatter the haricot verts, eggs, olives, capers, tomatoes and celery over each disk.
Drizzle anchovy dressing (recipe, right) around the edge of each disk. Dig in immediately.
In food processor, add 2 tablespoons of capers, 5 salted anchovy fillets, a garlic clove, an egg yolk and 3 tablespoons of lemon juice.
Then combine ½ cup of grapeseed oil and ½ cup of olive oil. Turn on the processor and drip in the oils slowly. When mixture thickens, add oil at a faster rate.
Salt to taste.