Lately, to love Japanese whisky feels a bit like a recipe for heartbreak. You fall in love with a beautiful bottling, then, “Wham!” It disappears from shelves, never to be seen again.
Luckily, this makes it a great time to get in early on another import headed our way: Japanese gin.
For those who wonder why it’s so hard to get Japanese whisky, it’s because demand outside the country for the spirit has risen so dramatically that supply has become scarce. In particular, age-statement Japanese whiskies are now an endangered species, replaced by quaffable blends suitable to mix into highballs.
But Japanese gin? A new romance may be afoot.
Like their whisky brethren, these gins have nuanced flavors. Japan’s botanicals seem familiar, yet unexpected. There’s yuzu instead of lemon, and numbing sansho pepper in place of black peppercorn. That’s in addition to local flowers, grassy teas and fruit peels that intrigue while keeping the palate slightly off-kilter.
While these gins have just started to make their way into the American marketplace, you can expect to see them gain momentum in 2018. Here are some suitors that may send your heart aflutter.
Nikka Coffey Gin will lead the pack, as Nikka made the gins widely available in the fall of 2017, before the others could gain much of a foothold. Of the three Japanese gins profiled here, this was also deemed the favorite. It’s lightly sweet up front, before blazing with citrusy zing. That citrus includes yuzu, as well as amanatsu (similar to Meyer lemon), kabosu (think of an orange-lemon hybrid) and shequasar (likened to a Mandarin or Valencia orange). It seems ideal to mix into martinis, since the botanicals provide a head start on that lemon twist. Nikka has also debuted a new vodka line, as well.
The Kyoto Distillery Ki No Bi Kyoto Dry Gin is made by one of Japan’s smaller producers, currently distributed by Tokiwa Imports. This markedly delicate gin starts with a rice-based spirit that’s soft on the palate and opens with bracing juniper and fennel seed aromas. The palate offers pleasing hints of pink peppercorn and rosewater, and finishes with a gingery tingle and an herbaceous/floral note attributed to shiso and bamboo leaf.
The final gin tasted, Roku, is produced by Japanese whisky giant Suntory. The parent company, Beam Suntory, doesn’t plan to distribute Roku in the U.S. right now, but limited quantities can be found online. It has a soft, almost creamy feel on the palate, but also plenty of peppery snap from the very first sip that fades to a grassy finish (the botanicals include two types of green tea). The piquancy suggests it would work well in a gin & tonic, or its Japanese equivalent, the “sonic”, which includes both soda water and tonic along with the gin.
While Japanese gins can be challenging to find, expect to see these names more frequently on cocktail menus and shelves in the new year. That’s a good thing, because while I still feel wistful for Japanese whisky, I’m ready to fall in love again.