Rediscover Gavi, Piedmont’s Under-the-Radar White Wine

Glasses on white wine on table
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Situated just inside Piedmont’s boundaries, less than 40 miles from the Ligurian coast, lies the hilly region of Gavi Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). This tiny appellation specializes in wine produced with the white grape Cortese, which produces both still and sparkling wines. At their best, these wines are crisp and refreshing, and display a full range of citrus, orchard and topical fruit flavors alongside pronounced floral elements. These wines are perfect for sipping on their own or for enjoying alongside a range of dishes, from roasted poultry to seafood to salads.

A Beginner's Guide to Wines from Italy's Piedmont

Broglia 2017 Bruno Broglia (Gavi); $45, 91 points. Made from vines planted in the first half of the 1950s and with very low yields, this full-bodied white opens with heady aromas of spring wildflowers, white stone fruit and a whiff of bread dough. The concentrated, full-bodied palate delivers mature apple, honey and a hint of almond alongside tangy acidity. Vias Imports. –Kerin O’Keefe

Bricco dei Guazzi 2018 del Comune di Gavi (Gavi); $15, 90 points. Aromas of white stone fruit and honeysuckle lead the way on this savory white. It’s crisp and tangy, with a saline note accenting green apple and honeydew before closing on an almond note. Montcalm Wine Importers. Best Buy. –K.O.

Castello di Tassarolo 2018 Il Castello (Gavi); $26, 90 points. Made according to the principles of biodynamic viticulture, this has aromas of honeysuckle, tropical fruit and a whiff reminiscent of crushed tomato vine. The round, enveloping palate delivers mature yellow apple, honeydew and honey, while fresh acidity lifts the rich flavors. It closes on a lemon drop note. Jenny and François Selections. –K.O.

Fontanafredda 2018 del Comune di Gavi (Gavi); $27, 90 points. Heady aromas of yellow wildflower, spring blossom and yellow stone fruit almost leap out of the glass. Tangy and savory, the round palate shows flavors of tart apple, lemon zest and honeydew alongside fresh acidity. Taub Family Selections. –K.O.

La Raia 2018 Gavi; $20, 90 points. Made with grapes grown according to the principles of biodynamic agriculture, this opens with aromas of green apple and white spring wildflowers. The rounded palate offers white peach, honeydew, bitter almond and lemon zest set against bright acidity. Vinifera Imports. –K.O.

Michele Chiarlo 2018 Le Marne (Gavi); $19, 90 points. This fragrant white offers aromas of yellow stone fruit, grilled herb, bread dough and a whiff of white rose. It’s elegant and linear, evoking grapefruit, apricot, mature yellow apple and a hint of saline alongside fresh acidity. Kobrand. –K.O.

Villa Sparina 2018 del Comune di Gavi (Gavi); $18, 90 points. Spring blossom and white stone fruit aromas shape the nose along with a whiff of botanical herbs. The savory palate doles out green apple, lemon drop and a tangy saline note alongside crisp acidity. It closes on an almond note. Ethica Wines. Editors’ Choice. –K.O.

La Mesma 2011 Metodo Classico (Gavi); $38, 89 points. Bread crust, white stone fruit and yellow spring flower aromas lead the nose. On the palate, you’ll find mature golden apple, lemon drop and a hint of nut alongside a soft perlage. Fresh acidity lifts the finish. Tanaro River Imports LLC. –K.O.

Olim Bauda 2018 del Comune di Gavi (Gavi); $22, 89 points. Pineapple, honeydew and spring flower aromas lead the way. The fruit aromas carry on to the palate together with tangy citrus before an almond close. Weygandt-Metzler. –K.O.

Tenuta la Marchesa 2018 Saula (Gavi); $18, 88 points. Spring blossom and white stone fruit aromas shape the nose. The tangy palate shows honeydew, almond and a hint of honey alongside bright acidity. LLS–Winebow. –K.O

Published on November 14, 2019
Topics: Wine and Ratings


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