How to Pair Caribbean Dishes with Wine, According to Pros

An image of Chef Andre's hot sauce and papaya jerk chicken with grilled corn on the cob
An image of Chef Andre's homemade hot sauce and papaya classic jerk chicken with grilled corn on the cob. / Photo by: Dave Krugman

On Caribbean and Caribbean-American tables, flavorful tamarind, coconut, curry, ginger, clove and dried black mushrooms harmonize with proteins like goat, oxtail, lamb and an array of seafood.

Given this bounty of possibilities, why don’t we see more wines paired with these dishes?

Andre Fowles, Jamaica-born chef of Miss Lily‚Äôs in New York City, and a three-time¬†Food Network ‚ÄúChopped‚ÄĚ champion believes¬†most islanders favor¬†rums,¬†beers, and¬†cocktails because of the region‚Äôs history of sugarcane and rum production. It‚Äôs a regional version of the wine pairing adage ‚ÄúWhat grows together goes together.

However, wine culture isn’t completely absent from the region, says Nickie Jurado, a Puerto Rican culinary consultant for food and wine brands and host of the podcast Kitchen Scene Investigator. 

‚ÄúIt was the Catholic Church that introduced wine to the people of the region,¬†as going to mass and ‚Äėdrinking the blood of Christ‚Äô was mandatory,‚ÄĚ says Jurado of the island‚Äôs 16th-century colonial period. ‚ÄúWith the evolution of Criollo culture‚ÄĒthose born on the island of Spanish parents‚ÄĒadoption of a taste for Spanish wines ensued.‚ÄĚ

Jurado believes ‚Äúmachismo‚ÄĚ has¬†prevented wine culture from proliferating further, noting that ‚Äúholding a stemmed glass is seen as too feminine‚ÄĚ in some Puerto Rican circles. Still, as travel and exposure¬†grow, ‚Äúaccess to wine and wine knowledge will continue to grow,‚ÄĚ she says.

Fortunately, there are plenty of ways to incorporate wine into Caribbean meals. Here are four tips from Caribbean wine and food experts. 

Chef Andre Fowles and Nickie Jurado
L-R: Images of Chef Andre Fowles and Nickie Jurado. / Photos by: Michael Condran and PowerTale Productions

Heat Index 

‚ÄúA good rule of thumb for pairing wine with traditional island cuisine is to choose varietals that complement the bold flavors of the dish, rather than wines that will intensify its spicy seasonings,‚ÄĚ says Fowles.

Balancing spice is key. 

‚ÄúFor the world-famous Jamaican jerk chicken, most people would reach for a cold, refreshing Red Stripe beer to counteract the strong, hot pepper spices,‚ÄĚ says Fowles, ‚Äúbut a crisp and fruity, off-dry Columbia Valley¬†ros√© would also pair well.‚ÄĚ

The high acidity and slight sweetness of cool-climate rosé can help offset the heat of both dry-rubbed and wet-jerk marinades. 

An image of Rumba Kitchen Frituras and dipping sauces on a wood platter.
An image of Rumba Kitchen Frituras and dipping sauces on a wood platter. / Photo by: Nickie Jurado

Full-Bodied Wines Can Balance Big Flavors

Caribbean braised meats like oxtail tend to be rich, so Fowles suggests pairing them with wines like a younger Barolo.

‚ÄúWhile the fattiness of the oxtail helps tame the strong¬†tannins in a young Barolo, [the wine is] bold enough to stand up to a dish as rich as oxtail,‚ÄĚ says Fowles.

He also recommends a full-bodied glass of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon to pair with pelau, a pigeon peas dish beloved on Trinidad, Haiti and other islands.  

‚ÄúPelau is full of pepper, bay leaf and thyme, so the acidity, as well as the full, round flavors of a Cab, will match the hot, peppery taste,‚ÄĚ he says.

Frituras are a savory traditional Latin Caribbean fried finger food prepared with cheese, dough, sazón, sofrito and bay leaves.

‚ÄúI like pairing them with a bottle of¬†Rioja¬†Reserva,‚ÄĚ says¬†Jurado.¬†‚ÄúThe medium body and acidity of¬† the Tempranillo stand up to the crunchy texture and weightiness of the¬†fritura, while the age from the American oak barrels¬†complements the layered seasonings of adobo, saz√≥n and green sofrito.‚Ä̬†

Mofongo with Pork
An image of Rumba Kitchen’s Mofongo With Pork topped with Red Cabbage. / Photo courtesy of Rumba Kitchen

Keep it Simple 

A traditional Caribbean specialty common to multiple islands, mofongo is made of deep-fried green plantain that’s then mashed with other ingredients such as seafood, garlic and pork.

Rumba Kitchen, a Puerto Rican restaurant in Los Angeles, serves a shrimp-studded version atop a creamy truffled sauce. Jurado suggests pairing this sort of full-flavored seafood dish with a light-bodied R√≠as Baixas¬†Albari√Īo¬†because¬†the dry¬†white wine¬†has¬†‚Äúfaint¬†salinity,¬†high¬†acidity and crispness¬†in the finish‚ÄĚ to¬†complement the¬†light protein and heavy sauce.¬†

An image of Rumba Kitchen signature Puerto Rican Chillo Frito dish of Caribbean fried Red Snapper
An image of Rumba Kitchen signature Puerto Rican Chillo Frito dish of Caribbean fried red snapper, red cabbage, and fried plantains. / Photo by: Wonho Frank Lee

Try Bubbles

Chillo frito is a fried red snapper with sofrito beurre blanc and citrus jicama sauce. It hails from Puerto Rico and is a traditional classic fried seafood dish that is normally paired with tostones or coconut rice.

Jurado¬†says this dish¬†‚Äúcalls for bubbles.‚Ä̬†She¬†suggests¬†a¬†Cava¬†brut¬†ros√©¬†to¬†open up¬†the¬†nuanced layers of the slightly acidic buttercream fish sauce, noting that the effervescence of the wine ‚Äúadds a quirky twist when paired with the crispy texture.‚Ä̬†¬†

Published on November 11, 2021
Topics: How to Pair