Prager 2020 Grüner Veltliner Wachstum Bodenstein Smaragd (Wachau); $90, 95 Points. This is crafted with laser precision, delivering inviting aromas that draw you into the glass, where flavors of dragon fruit, papaya, quince and lemon dance together harmoniously. Velvet and silk come to mind when you think of its texture, while the wet stone and quinine notes embrace the lasting finish. Best from 2024–2035.Cellar Selection. —A.Z.
Christophe Hoch NV Grüner Veltliner Hollenburger (Weinland Österreich); $18, 92 Points. This redefines what a Kamptal Grüner is, starting off with a hint of matchstick that signals soft reduction, but once blown off, there is an electric offering of melon, Meyer lemon, sage and lily that all sing in harmony. Then you notice the captivating texture, wrapping up the experience.—A.Z.
Hager Matthias 2018 Viefalt Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich); $29, 91 Points. This beats to its own drum with a cloudy appearance and a slight grip on the palate. It exhibits notes of ripe apricot, tangerine and sage honey, with good complexity and a finish that invites you for another sip. It is a wine that makes you think.—A.Z.
Stadt Krems 2020 Stein Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal); $20, 90 Points. Subtle aromas of elderflower are overtaken by an expressive palate, which features notes of white peach, Jonagold apple and yuzu. It’s almost velvety in feel, with medium to full body, but the mouth-watering acidity keeps it intact.—A.Z.
Harm 2020 Ried Silberbichl Grüner Veltliner (Wachau); $24, 90 Points. This shows some hints of reduction, but that adds to the overall experience, complementing white pepper, cardamom and yuzu details on the palate. It reveals more with some air and offers a lingering finish.—A.Z.
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