Abacela 2003 Viognier (Oregon)

A high test version at 15% alcohol, this successfully skirts the problems that can plague such wines. The high-toned, complex aromas of rose petals, spice and citrus avoid going volatile; the tropical fruit core never descends into bubble gum, and the bitter citrus rind finish manages to hold onto a sense of appropriate balance. Whew! Paul Gregutt

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