Abadia Retuerta 2003 Pago Negralada Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León)

With its creamy oak and baked, stretched-out flavors, is it worth $110? You can decide, but the nose has that mildly cooked, heavy character that is reflective of 2003, and the palate is bland and drying as it mixes in oaky coconut and vanilla flavors. At one moment it's sharp and tangy; then it seems better. A confounding Tempranillo that doesn't excite. Michael Schachner

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