Even though it smells like burnt steak, we also caught softer aromas of grilled fruit, tea and clove. If a huge, barrel-influenced wine is not your style, steer clear. But if you like a brawny, tannic heavyweight that can age for the better part of a decade, this is your wine. It has a massive underlay of ripe plum fruit, terrific zip and a mile-long finish. Cellar Selection.