There is a curious conflict between the creamy texture of this wine and the tight, tangy acidity. For a wine that is meant to be drunk young, it doesn't hold together, although the green fruits at the back are attractive. Drink now.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.