Adelsheim 1998 Bryan Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)

Rustic, with some smoke and char up front that gives way to intense berry flavors. It's a touch idiosyncratic—it's very concentrated and a bit sauvage—as it shows a lot of vineyard individuality. Hard and rugged now; a few years in the bottle should tame its power. Michael Schachner

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