The fact that this wine comes from the chalkiest of soils and is bone dry gives it considerable austerity. It is definitely mineral in taste and texture, with a touch of salt and grapefruit flavors; very structured and tight. It needs to age.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.