The wine is impressive and packed with dense dark fruits. It comes from the showpiece estate of Madiran that was created by the iconic producer of the region, Alain Brumont. If this wine wasn't quite so intense, so overpowering and so alcoholic, it would be very great indeed. As it is, it will surely age and should not be drunk until 2020.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.