Spice, especially nutmeg, is a distinctive character in this soft, ripe wine. It lacks some definition, but is attractively round. Fruit flavors tend toward white pears, edged with toast, while the texture is fat, full.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.