The fruit here is attractive, pears and white currants on top of pink grapefruit and orange zest. It shows its structure and its tense minerality only slowly, allowing the acidity to give it a lift and vibrancy. This is a wine that is still young, still smoothing out its hard edges.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.