While Alphonse Mellot's La Demoiselle shows the weight of Pinot Noir, this En Grands Champs, grown on chalk soil, shows purity of fruit. There may be some leanness to it, but that is balanced by the red berry flavor, and the fresh, vital acidity. The wood element shows through, but it's the fruit that dominates.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.