Ambullneo 2005 Canis Major Pinot Noir (California)

Ambullneo's most expensive Pinot has a statewide appellation, but they pride themselves as masters of blending. This wine, from their portions of vineyards in Solomon Hills, Bien Nacido, Hyde and Hudson, is eloquent. It's big, rich and flamboyant, almost Rhône-like, with cherry and raspberry pie-filling flavors, and the caramelized new oak that so spicily supports it. Has the volume and upscale complexity to accompany the best dishes, and should improve for five years.

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